"Which volume do I use?" is perhaps the most frequent question at the colour counter. Behind it lies a simple rule: hair colour is not a single product, but a mixture of colour and developer. Understanding what each of the two does helps you choose better.
What volumes are
Developer is an emulsion based on hydrogen peroxide, and the volumes indicate how concentrated it is. As a rough guide, 10 volumes correspond to about 3%, 20 volumes to 6%, 30 volumes to 9% and 40 volumes to 12%. Wella states the same for its Welloxon Perfect: 4% (13 volumes) and 6% (20 volumes). The higher the volumes, the more the developer can lighten; the lower they are, the more the work focuses on depositing colour and coverage.
For Cotril's Oxycream the manufacturer indicates low volumes for deposit and coverage and high ones for lightening: 40 volumes reaches 3-4 levels of lift.
What ammonia does, and what "free" means
Ammonia is the classic alkalising agent in permanent colours: it opens the cuticle, so the dyes can enter and the developer can act. "Ammonia-free" colours use other alkalising systems or work differently. Three things to know:
- "Ammonia-free" does not mean "developer-free": the developer is needed all the same.
- It does not necessarily lighten or cover in the same way as a permanent colour.
- It is a characteristic of the formula, not a judgement on the result: choose it for what you want to achieve.
Permanent or demi-permanent
Permanent colour, such as Insight Incolor, covers white hair and builds the colour base; Incolor is mixed 1:1.5 with the Nourishing Colour Activator (1:2 for super-lighteners). Demi-permanent deposits colour without lightening. Wella Color Touch is ammonia-free and is used to refresh, change tone or cover the first white hairs.
Matching colour and developer from the same line
Each house designs its own formulas to work with a specific developer. Welloxon Perfect is designed as the partner of Wella colours, starting with Koleston Perfect ME+; Oxycream is designed for Cotril colours and lighteners; Incolor is mixed with the Insight Activator. Changing brand or inventing your own ratios is the most frequent cause of results different from what was expected. The right quantities are always those given in the house's instructions. Some products, such as Welloxon Perfect, are indicated by the manufacturer for professional use only.
What to look at before choosing
- The goal: covering white hair, changing tone, lightening or refreshing.
- Permanent or demi-permanent.
- The colour line and the developer the manufacturer indicates for that line.
- The volumes needed for the service, according to the goal.
- The range of available shades.
- The processing time (35-40 minutes for Incolor) and the house's instructions.
The most common mistakes
- Raising the volumes to get a lighter colour when the chosen colour is not made to lighten.
- Mixing different brands without knowing how they react.
- Not respecting the processing times indicated by the manufacturer.
- Forgetting the sensitivity test before colouring, as the manufacturers' instructions recommend.
Where to find the products
Our developers and hair dyes sections gather the Cotril, Wella and Insight lines, as well as other brands. If you do not know which combination to choose, ask us.
Come and visit us in the shop
For colour, a piece of advice in person is worth a thousand charts. In Campobasso, at Viale XXIV Maggio 140, we are happy to show you the products in person and advise you without rush. If you prefer, you can call us on 0874 698703.